NO 4 BLAKE STREET, NORTH PERTH
The first thing noticed when we were seated was that the table had nothing on it; a blank canvas: no cutlery, no glassware, just the menu which is presented like a scroll, tied up with a ribbon. I love the lack of clutter, a refreshing change to the norm. The prix fix menu is $90 per person ($135 with matching wines). Choice of entree, main and dessert, but you also get “surprises” – an amuse bouche, an “al dente” dish and a palate cleanser.
First, freshly baked bread – with a choice of sourdough or olive, served with three different house-made butters: thyme, capsicum and salt and vinegar! The latter tasting exactly like eating salt and vinegar crisps – a left-field idea and a great start to the evening.
The amuse bouche was rabbit loin served with orange and sweet potato puree and puffed wild rice. I am not particularly fond of orange flavour with sweet potato, but the puree was subtly flavoured with a nice consistency, the rabbit was tender, and I loved the crunchy texture of the puffed rice.
My entree was “rabbit parfait, belly presse, leg and pistachio terrine, gingerbread tuile, pomegranate”. Silky terrine, and belly presse which tasted like crisp, smoky bacon. I loved the paper-thin, crunchy tuile; the gingerbread taste well matched with the different forms of rabbit.
Gavin’s entree was “buttered yabbies, blood orange gel, boudin noir, purple potato crisp”. My one wee mouthful with sweet yabby meat and juicy black pudding was beautiful.
The lamb ragu with pappardelle was my least favourite dish of the night. The pasta was well made but the dish was under-seasoned, and just didn’t really fit in with the theme and beautiful presentation of all the other dishes.
The slight let down of the al dente course was quickly forgotten when I was presented with “chicken stuffed with Perigord truffle, summer corn, popcorn, pickled shimeji, porcini foam, mushroom paper”. So many different flavours – the mushroom paper was salty and crisp, the porcini foam light and smooth – both with strong mushroom flavour, which along with the truffle, was a great match for the delicate chicken. Very happy with my choice.
Cute little palate cleansers were then presented on a wooden board. “White chocolate and coconut sorbet with pickled pineapple, coconut sago and passionfruit fluff. Sweet, but also tart and refreshing – as a palate cleanser should be!
My “Chocolate Garden” dessert was very “Heston” – Valrhona chocolate mousse, salted peanut, daccquoise. The dish was stunningly presented in a terracotta pot and did actually look like dirt. The initial taste was just chocolate, but the more I ate, the more flavours I discovered: nuts, caramel – each mouthful different from the one previous.
Great dessert, but I did have slight menu envy of Dan’s, “winter jar: tonka bean and vanilla pannacotta, burnt orange jelly, malted crumb, cinnamon ice cream” – next time!
The professional, attentive service we received was faultless. Majdouline and Romain were great; a total credit to the restaurant. It is not everyday that you get a kiss goodbye when you leave a restaurant – they made an enjoyable night with great food even better and I cannot wait to return to try the new menu in September.
Dinner – Thursday 20 June 2013